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After Antwerp: to Burgundy and then Aquitaine. (Continuation of "Waternotes")
In May 2006,
we left Antwerp on the Albert Canal and made our way, dodging all the
professional traffic, to Maastricht.
We occasionally
said: "do you remember when we tied up here last year and a loaded barge
pulled out our stakes and we floated into the waterway?" Or, "Oh,
that's where we were hung up on a submerged rock overnight and had to
pay 500 euros to a tugboat to pull us off." Ah, the joys of boating!
Even Louie
the cat, if he could, would tell of the mooring one evening when he could
not come up on deck because of the dive-bombing crows. We must have been
too close to a nest, and Louie paid the price.
In Maastricht
(which is well worth a visit) we picked up the Maas River, which immediately
became the Meuse as we passed from Flanders and Holland into Wallony.
On the one hand, I missed the Adventures in Dutch of the past few weeks.
On the other hand, we were grateful to slip back into comfy French. | |
We cruised
on up the Meuse past Liege to Namur, where we chose to turn south with
the Meuse, rather than to go west on the Sambre. All this time we are
going south, we are going upstream. Think of the Nile.
South of
Namur is a series of magnificent riverfront homes of all ages, including
one chateau (or riverfront monastary). It's a rewarding few hours' cruise. |
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Then came
the wildness of the Ardennes, and we were among cliffs and forests - very
Grimm Brothers. |
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A few days
later we had crossed into France and were safely moored in the marina
of Charleville-Mesieres. To find the marina in this town, we had to come
out of a tunnel, blink in the sunlight, turn right against the advice
of all the waterway signage, motor on past various neighborhoods and a
(free) pontoon usually filled with Dutch cruisers, go under the walking
bridge that goes into the center of town, past pontoons for larger boats
(over 12 meters - but we ignore that too) and, finally, do a 90 degree
turn to the right, under another bridge, and we come out in a hidden but
beautiful new marina, with pilings rising 5 meters out of the water, just
in case the river floods. Fresh water and electricity! and green playing
fields and a campground. Heaven.
Our wonderful
Moroccan restaurant of the year before had disappeared, but we made do
- as one can make do eating in provincial France. Savory and hearty fare
is the rule. Sooo good.

Then, instead of climbing the Jura mountains and going down the other
side (as usual) we took the Canal des Ardennes to the west and went around
the mountains. We had much less scenery this way but many fewer locks.
We turned south and came out a few days later on the Saone river in Burgundy.
That was our destination, in case I hadn't mentioned it.
St-Jean-de-Losne
- our home away from home. Home at last!

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I want a website like My-Paris-Page.com |
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| For no reason at all, here is the address of my unfinished (always) barge page: http://onrust.free.fr.
. ONLY go here if you are interested
in barges. Otherwise you will be bored! |
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Why
are we in St Jean de Losne? (Instead of Paris?) If you want to buy or sell
a live-on barge in France, then St Jean de Losne is the place to start.
The "Gare d'eau" or "boat station" is a harbor off the Saone River, and
a safe mooring place all year. There are boatyards, marine shops, and brokers
in plenty. |
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Why
would we want to sell our Onrust? Well, we don't really, but we'd been
having grief about a hydraulic leak from the time we got her. And the
Skipper was just worn out with the upkeep of four diesel engines, plus the cooling, plus
the electrics, plus the plumbing, plus the bilges, plus the hull, not to
mention the hydraulics. I couldn't argue with that, because he was doing
*all* the work and said he just longed for some house mechanics for a
change.
In
the end, the hydraulic leak was found (inboard) and fixed the very day we sold
her. So we sold her. Our best consolation is that she went to a very knowledgeable
professional skipper, who will understand her hiccups and know what to
do about them.
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But
what about us?? The Skipper, me, and Louie the cat? well, we went home
to our old house in Lot-et-Garonne. And it's a long way from Paris! But
It is a rich and comforting place in its own way.
We
spent the coldest months of the winter in Santa Cruz, California, where
we always see our family for the holidays.
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But
then in February, here we were in Aquitaine again. And here we have stayed,
except for one long weekend in Paris for an infusion of excitement, and
a lot of photo-taking.
I
would like to make an aside here to exhort you all, when you drag-and-drop
your photos onto the hard drive, to make sure they are really *there*
before erasing the original files. Why am I saying this? Oh, no reason. I just want *you* to have all your Paris photos when you get home.
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I
often ask myself if Paris has anything to match our view, above. The answer
is yes, of course, but in its own Parisian way. Our way now is all about
Aquitaine.
Louie
the Cat loves it here, what with open spaces and insects and rodents and
a few feral cats to deliberate with. Both feral lady cats had litters
a few weeks ago, one of which I can find and therefore feel responsible
for. The other, who knows? But the mama turns up here for meals. What
debased person could turn down a nursing mother when she begs?
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The other day I
put the kittens that I could find in the bathtub along with a pan of kitten
food, and they ate like starving things. So they are old enough to be
weaned, which means that mama needs to be spayed now. The vet will give
me a discount on a stray cat. If I can catch her.
Now, if I were
in Paris, I might be working on getting opera tickets, but in the country,
one's mind is taken up with more basic things.
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So,
here we are, down in the south-west of France, right where the three departments
of Dordogne, Lot-et-Garonne, and Gironde come together. We live in one
department, go to market in another, and bank in the third. The real advantage,
though, is that when you go to the wine co-op, there are hoses of Bordeaux
wine and Bergerac wine, and the local Duras (Lot-et-Garonne) wine. You
fill your own container from the hose of your choice. Yes, of course you
can taste them all first.
We
were surely the only people we knew in Burgundy (remember St Jean de Losne?)
who brought back cases of Bergerac wine with every trip home. That Burgundy
is kinda thin for our taste!
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In
fact, I can't see us back in Burgundy any time soon, unless the barging
bug bites us again. Not likely, says the Skipper. But the Canal de Garonne is only about
a half hour from here, and there are plenty of just plain boats there.
We may yet get back onto the water. Here in the south, where we belong!
And
Paris? Any time. It's only a quick train ride away.
Look
at the contrasting shopping styles, left (That's an accordeonist uder the umbrella). Some days we yearn for the elegance
of Paris, other times we just want the simple life (ha).
Ah,
the myth of the simple life. Did that kitten just slither behind the armoire?
There's another litter on the roof? Anyone have a ladder to get some cherries
before the birds take them all? What ate the courgette plant? We have
to thin the apples? I hope *someone* likes figs, as we have four trees
. . .
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Here
ends this page, because it is long enough.
All will be continued on the page "Allemans".
Return to My-Paris-Page.com/beyondparis
Thank you all!
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